Author Topic: Finn's  (Read 7380 times)

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« on: Fri March 12, 2004, 06:42:21 PM »
Has anyone had experience with Finn Hydroseeders?  I hear they are the best mechanically agitated units, but have heard of some problems as well.  Need to upgrade to a much larger machine than I have currently and need to be able to spray wood mixtures.


Offline Turboguy

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« Reply #1 on: Sat March 13, 2004, 02:53:45 AM »
Hi Brian,

I sort of think different machines have different strengths and weaknesses and it is not so much a case that any unit is the best there is.    For certain applications some machines may be a little more suitable than others.  We also try to avoid product comparisons so no one gets upset.

I think though it is safe to say that Finn makes an excellent unit.  They have been around longer than anyone and are excellent in building a quality product and standing behind it.   I actually think most of the ones who also build larger mechanical units such as Bowie, Easy Lawn and Kincade also have good quailty units.  It sounds like you are leaning to the Finn.  I think if you buy it you will be happy.
Turbo Turf HS-400-XPW

Offline muddstopper

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« Reply #2 on: Sat March 13, 2004, 09:40:40 AM »
Most all mechanical agitated machines work on the same principle. They use paddles connected to a shaft that turn and mix the slurry. The difference is usually in the type of pump they use and the size of the engine for pulling the agitators and the pump. Pump types range from centrifical, gear, and progressive cavity.

Centrifical pumps will pump great volumes of water with adequate pressure for most adverage seeding jobs and might be a little better for long distance spraying when the tower turrent is used. Centrifical pumps ususally require a little thinner slurry when pumping thru extra long distances thru hoses because they lact the ability to maintain pressure at the spray nozzel. But they work well for normal hose work.

Gear pumps are a positive displacement pump, that is capable of pumping greater pressures but at a reduced volume. They will out perform a centrifical pump when pumping thru extral long hose because of their ability to maintain pressure with heavier slurries. The reduced volume will effect the distance that they are able to spray thru a turrent, but they do well for normal turret spraying.

Progressive Cavity pumps are also another positive displacement pump. They can produce greater pressure than a centrifical pump and better flow volumes than a gear pump. They work well for thicker slurries and long hoses and also work well for turrent work. Drawbacks are usually cost and life expectancecy. Rebuilds can be more expensive than the rebuild on either the gear or the centrifical type pump. But if you need to pump super thick slurries thru long distances of hoses, they would be the pump of choice.

Engine brands and types are always subject to personal preferences. Horsepower is the final determining factor. Machines with small engines, while they may work well for the usual jobs around homes, and for turrent work, might not have enough power to pump the slurry thru a long  hose, up a steep hill. The more the pump has to work the more horsepower that is neccisary to pump the slurry. For this reason, and if you anticipate having to perform this type of seeding, you would be better off getting the bigger engine option on your hydroseeder.
Another option for seeding thru long hoses, if you find your machine just wont pump it where you want it, would be to place another pump in your hoseline. A good trash pump placed in the line will act as a booster pump and will increase the distances that you can pump or spray.
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Trash Pump
« Reply #3 on: Sun March 14, 2004, 09:02:45 PM »
Hi Muddstopper,

You got me thinking, I plan on buying a T60 trailered Finn.  You were saying that you could put a trash pump in your line to increase the pumping distance.  Where could I place it?  Could I put a 50 100 or 150 foot hose and then place the trash pump and then more hose.  Where would be the best location to have my trash pump for best results?



Offline muddstopper

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« Reply #4 on: Mon March 15, 2004, 07:12:09 PM »
I would put it at the end of my first section of hose and before the last section. The whole purpose of using a second pump would be to increase the distance that you would be able to pump. Placing it close to the machine wouldnt help you any or just very little in increasing distance that you could pump. I havent actually tried this myself, but was told by a good source that this should work. I do intend on trying it when the situation dictates. With a new Finn you shouldnt need the extra pumping power even at 150 ft unless you where pumping almost straight up. Which is what I have to do a lot of and is the reason I am going to try the additional pump.
« Last Edit: Mon March 15, 2004, 07:15:42 PM by muddstopper »
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« Reply #5 on: Mon March 15, 2004, 08:43:41 PM »
I also have a FINN trailer t60II. You wont be needing to add another pump  99% of the time. I pump uphill 150' with a pretty thick slurry. Finn=many trouble free years. Just keep it clean and maintained. I shoot all wood or 80/20. Call with questions @ 203-881-9419  Bill

Offline Jammer

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« Reply #6 on: Mon March 15, 2004, 10:15:08 PM »
Prolawn, Look at the EZlawn contractor 950 gallon. I think it has all the best features we talked about and a ss tank. $$$$$$$$$$$  Dont know?. Love my Finn but allways ask for more:( :D
Growing grass for 25 yrs.   *International Association of Hydroseeding Professionals * -----  Bill Lockwood **** __Helping keep Earth Green__

Offline muddstopper

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« Reply #7 on: Tue March 16, 2004, 07:01:44 PM »
If you have ever priced stainless the dollar amount difference in the price wouldnt suprise you as much when compareing machines. I priced 4 sheets of 3/16 mild steel and 4 sheets of 3/16 stainless and almost fell over. The stainless was $8500 verses the mild steel at $1600. I thought the $1600 was high until they told me the price of the stainless. One thing to consider is the longliveity of the stainless over the reg. steel. I thought about that for a minute and then thought, heck the machine I have is a 1969 model and it hasnt rusted thru yet, so with proper cleaning and regular spot repair of the coating,even a regular steel machine should last for years.
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